Those soft, squishy loaves sitting so temptingly on supermarket shelves have very little to do with real bread. We take a look at the Chorleywood Bread Process used widely in the UK and increasingly elsewhere, a postwar leftover that is responsible for adding a host of man-made chemicals – and plenty of air – into most forms of store-bought ‘bread’. And if the details leave you wanting better bread, we give you some useful tools.
The Chorleywood process
In the years following the end of the Second World War, UK planners were faced with the problem of how to feed millions of hungry mouths in a climate of postwar austerity. Fortunately, as it seemed at the time, the generous souls at the British Baking Research Association (BBRA) had a bright idea. Despite bread having long been a staple of the British diet, its mass production had been hampered by several factors, most notably the country’s reliance on imported North American wheat and the overnight fermentation required to obtain a dough suitable for baking. The folks at the BBRA decided to harness the wonders of 1960s chemistry to kill two birds with one stone: to do away with overnight fermentation altogether and allow lower-protein UK wheat to be used in place of its higher-protein US cousin. And thus, in 1961, the Chorleywood Bread Process (CBP) was born.
No time for fermentation
For obvious reasons, the CBP is also known as the no-time method – it reduces to 3.5 hours the time required to produce a loaf of bread from flour to sliced and packaged form. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the CBP currently accounts for around 80% of UK bread production, and it has been enthusiastically adopted by countries such as India, Australia and New Zealand.
Over time, the character of the ingredients used in the CBP has changed markedly, although the sheer diversity remains. Until the 1990s, a cocktail of chemicals was employed, including the powerful oxidiser potassium bromate, the ‘flour improving’ properties of which helped to form stronger and higher-rising dough. When potassium bromate was banned in the EU and elsewhere for being potentially carcinogenic, however, the BBRA changed tack and decided that another class of additives would do the job even better: enzymes.
Evasive enzymes
Exactly which enzymes is another matter, thanks to two factors. First is a worrying lack of transparency in the supply chain: CBP enzymes are manufactured by a small number of global companies, which sell them on to a second set of companies that produce complex enzyme cocktails. These cocktails can be tailored according to each company’s wishes for the finished product. As our industry source explained, “You can’t tell me that any of this is traceable to its source. It could be from any source: it could be from waste, it could be industrial, it could be synthetic, it could be natural – we just don’t know.”
Secondly, assiduous lobbying by bread manufacturers has ensured that enzymes and other additives, known by the bland phrase ‘processing aids’, do not have to be listed on product labels. Despite this, we do know that these enzymes include phospholipase A2, fungal alpha-amylase – a known allergen that can cause ‘baker’s asthma’ and which has been detected in bread crust – maltogenic amylase, hemicellulase, transglutaminase and xylanase. Some additives may be innocuous or even beneficial, such as L-cysteine, a semi-essential amino acid (that is also produced within the body), originally derived for commercial use from human hair or feathers. By sleight of hand, because the European Union does not consider these ‘processing aids’ either as ingredients or additives, bread manufacturers are able to legally disguise their presence from the buying public.
Hidden genetically modified ingredients
It gets worse. Even with all of the chemicals and enzymes involved in the CBP, yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) remains indispensable to baking and there is a clear cost motive for industry to obtain massive quantities of yeast as cheaply as possible. One way to do this is to create new strains of yeast that can grow on a huge variety of culture media. As a single-celled organism, yeast is ideally suited to genetic manipulation, and the bread industry has adopted a process known as protoplast fusion to develop new strains. As its name implies, the process involves fusing the naked genetic material, or protoplasm, of different yeast strains. And, since the CBP’s rapid, high-temperature mixing process kills yeast more rapidly than under normal circumstances, CBP breadmakers add excess yeast to compensate – meaning that GM yeast residues can easily find their way into the finished loaf. Enzymes and soya flour can also be of GM origin.
Manipulating public taste
And what’s the result of all this modern industrial wizardry? In short: huge, soft, squishy and very cheap loaves. Bread baked using traditional methods contains very little air and is consequently far smaller and denser than CBP loaves. It hasn’t taken long for the public in countries that use the CBP to become conditioned to huge loaves, with long shelf lives, that can be checked for freshness using the ‘squeeze test’.
There are two costs involved here. One is the very low cost to the public wallet of CBP-produced bread. The other, potentially far more expensive, is the cost to public health of basing its diet on an industrial product stuffed full of artificial and potentially dangerous ingredients. “Look what’s happened since the Chorleywood Process was invented in the 1960s,” points out our industry source. “We have rising obesity and a huge rise in coeliac disease, and there may be a link – people eat a lot of bread! It’s just not possible to make something digestible from grains in 20 minutes. If you want to make bread from grains you have to ferment it. If you just do chemical leavening instead of natural fermentation, it’s just not digestible. Frankly, the Chorleywood Process is bad for health, bad for jobs and bad for the high street because it’s bad for the baker.”
Call to action
- Especially if you’re in the UK, check out the Real Bread Campaign, which explains what Real Bread is all about and can help you to find a local supplier. Even the town of Chorleywood is getting involved!
- The Real Bread Campaign provides a useful list of links for those located outside the UK wishing to get involved, and most of its information will be useful regardless of your location
- Even without the help of specific campaigns, finding real bread locally should not be too difficult. Go and have a chat to independent bakeries in your community, and if they’re baking additive-free – support them! Farmers’ markets and the Internet are other valuable sources of high-quality, additive-free, ideally organic bread
- You may be really keen and itching to make your own real bread either at home or professionally. The Real Bread Campaign has a UK course directory for those wishing to improve their skills, and there will probably be similar initiatives outside the UK.
Comments
your voice counts
Robert Redfern http://www.RobertRedfern.com
23 April 2014 at 11:22 pm
This may be against the grain, but!
The Top 20 Reasons Why Eating Grains and Cereals Will Make You Sick (and May Shorten Your Life)! There are plenty more!
White and Brown rice, white and wholegrain bread and pasta are all grains we need to avoid because they’re not part of a healthy lifestyle.
These grains are basically nothing but sugar, leading to unstable blood sugar levels. They can be refined, processed and without fibre. Whole grains and cereals are different though, because they are after all whole grains, right?
Wrong!
This is what we are led to believe for various reasons, some of them monetary and funded by the food manufacturers. Whole grains are actually very similar to the more refined grains mentioned earlier and may be even worse, with the whole grain fragments not being much different than those produced from white flour.
We need to avoid all grains as they are associated with many health complications and diseases. Let’s take a look at the top twenty reasons why we should eliminate these foods right away.
Top 20 Reasons...........
1. A High Glycemic Index
The glycemic index is a system that ranks foods by the speeds at which their carbohydrates are converted into glucose in the body; or to put it more simply, a measure of the effects of foods on blood-¬sugar levels. All grains rank high on the index, meaning they raise blood sugar quickly as opposed to a slow sustained release of sugar. High blood sugar levels are linked to a multitude of chronic diseases.
2. Mycotoxins
Mycotoxins are poisonous substances produced by fungi which grow in yeast and mould. Grains contain mycotoxins and these toxins are linked to numerous diseases.
3. Inflammation
A proper essential fatty acid ratio is imperative to good health. Grains contain an improper balance of omegas-3s to omega-6s, leading to inflammation. This inflammation is further exacerbated by the unhealthy spreads we put on our grains. The sugars also contribute to damage through a process called glycation. These all damage the walls of our arteries and joints.
4. Acid-¬Forming
Our body is naturally alkaline. To remain alkaline we require the majority of our foods to be alkaline-¬forming. Grains are acid-¬forming and acidifying to our body, leading to calcium loss in the urine and an increased risk of osteoporosis. When our body becomes too acid, acidosis sets in, bringing with it many health concerns.
5. Overgrowth of Unfriendly Bacteria in the Gut
An overabundance of sugar from consuming grains feeds the unfriendly bacteria in our intestinal tract. In the proper amounts these bacteria are necessary; however, in abundance they create illness.
6. Displaces other more nutrient-dense foods
Fruits and vegetables contain an abundance of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and phytochemicals which are lacking in grains.
7. Fiber Content
Fruits contain twice as much fiber as grains; non-starchy vegetables supply 8 times more fiber.
8. Poor Source of Vitamins
Grains contain no vitamin C or B12 and contain only trace amounts of folate and biotin, another B vitamin. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant and low levels of B12 and folate lead to increased levels of the amino acid homocysteine, increasing the risk of heart disease.
9. Provides No Calcium
Grains contain no calcium and form an insoluble complex with calcium. Along with grain’s high levels of phosphorus this leads to a low calcium/phosphorus ratio. High levels of phosphorus speed up bone loss. Antinutrients are chemicals that prevent absorption of minerals and nutrients, damage the gastrointestinal tract and affect immune system function.
10. Inhibits Vitamin Absorption
Pyridoxine glucosides block the absorption of B vitamins in the intestines, including B6, which is also related to increased levels of homocysteine. Vitamin D metabolism is inhibited by the consumption of grains, reducing calcium absorption.
11. Inhibits Mineral Absorption
Phytates chemically bond the iron, zinc, copper and calcium within grains, blocking their absorption during the digestion process.
12. Enzyme Inhibitors
Enzyme inhibitors suppress the enzymes you need to digest food, compromising digestion and placing stress on the pancreas.
13. Acrylamide
A chemical created in some foods, usually starches, when using high heat or extended cooking times. Bread is a good example and can cause cancer and birth defects. Diseases and Disorders
14. Glutinous proteins
Glutinous proteins are found in grains. These are responsible for food allergies, intolerances and sensitivities.
15. Celiac Disease
Celiac disease is a genetic autoimmune disease affecting the small intestine (and possibly the lungs). It may be triggered by eating too many grains early in life or a traumatic event creating stress in the body. Celiac disease causes great distress to the immune system and can be life-threatening. The only “cure” for celiac disease is to completely avoid gluten.
16. Dermatitis Herpetiformis
Dermatitis Herpetiformis is the skin form of celiac disease. Avoiding gluten completely applies here too.
17. Hashimoto’s Disease
Hashimoto’s disease is also an auto-immune disorder. It affects the thyroid. Gluten must be avoided.
18. Lectins and Leaky Gut Syndrome
Lectins are proteins in grains which are indigestible. Instead of being absorbed, these proteins attach to cells in the intestines, increasing intestinal permeability and allowing partially undigested food proteins and undesirable bacteria to enter the bloodstream. This is a condition known as leaky gut syndrome. A leaky gut confuses the immune system, causing it to attack the body’s own tissues.
19. Autism
This condition sees significant improvement on a gluten-free diet.
20. Schizophrenia
Wheat may contain a narcotic-like substance that impacts on behaviour. Removing gluten-containing grains decreases schizophrenic episodes.
Health Complications
Some of the health complications already mentioned and others associated with consuming grains are:
Heart Disease
Certain cancers
High blood pressure
Increased risk of kidney stones
Aggravated asthma
Vitamin/mineral deficiencies
Anemia
Hyperinsulinemia
Osteoporosis
Adult-onset diabetes
Weight gain
Increased triglycerides
Insomnia
Stroke
Epilepsy attacks
Eliminating grains and replacing them with more low sugar fruits and non-starchy vegetables will lead to better health. This can sometimes leave a void where grains used to be.
Are there any alternatives?
Yes!
.....Alternative Grains
Alternative grains are foods thought of and used as grains, but are actually seeds. These substitutions are healthy, nutritious and gluten-free.
They are:
Quinoa
Amaranth
Buckwheat
These can be enjoyed in recipes you currently make with grains. Get creative with these new foods and they will open up a whole new world of flavours and foods.
To summarise, a 3 point action plan that you can start today:
1. Eliminate all grains
2. Increase, dark skinned fruits and berries, and non-starchy vegetables
3. Replace grains and experiment with ‘alternative grains’ such as quinoa.
That's it! Live long and be grain free!
Stella Barclay
29 April 2014 at 9:22 pm
What an informative statement above. Cutting out carbs completely feels so right. I have been eating low-carb and wondered if I could ever go no-carb. Now that I know that quinoa and buckwheat are not carbs, going no-carb seems so easy. I know my health will benefit.
Bill
17 May 2014 at 7:18 am
Interesting article, we have been making our own bread for some years now, using yellow pea flour with potato and buckwheat flours, none of which are grains. They are easy to work with, and once sliced then frozen they can be toasted as required. The yellow pea flour is relatively cheap and forms the bulk of our loaves, other contents are butter water milk powder or yogurt and some times ground linseed.
Anonymous
01 August 2015 at 2:37 pm
Understand where you are coming from on modern grains and the Chorleywood processed bread.(bread in 3.5 hours) However research sourdough or sprouted bread and you find another picture. Grains need to be sprouted or fermented to get rid of phytic acid and inhibitors which prevents use of minerals in the grain.
Modern Chorley wood process with its short fermentation time can lead to lack of minerals which are needed for heart function like magnesium.
Stella E Voisey
If you are going to eat grain use properly processed long fermented bread and your gut will thank you for it because it is easy to digest.
Estelle beninson
24 February 2017 at 9:29 pm
Yes I remember when my dad first brought in a white sliced loaf and we thought it was wonderful. Now I'm sick of tasteless bread and just want to find the real stuff.
Frank Hoen
15 September 2018 at 1:33 pm
Make it yourself. That's what I do. Some big supermarkets make their own bread in the traditonal way, but the people making the bread are not educated as bakers - anyone can do it with some instructions and all the ingredients are pre-mixed and horrible. Bread making needs love and time - then you'll get a good result. Making bread yourself is not too difficult, but don't expect to get the fluffy result you get from the supermarket. I use cold water and just let it ferment longer - improves the flavour no end.
Frank Hoen
15 September 2018 at 1:23 pm
I worked for 5 years in the Dutch baking industry. If you go to The Netherlands or Germany or France you will notice that they still have local bakeries. Ours have disappeared. Why? And if you buy a loaf in Holland you will notice a few things. First, it tastes better, secondly it costs more - about 2 or 3 times the price in the UK. Thirdly, you'll see that it has a different feel - you can bend it double and the bread will not break.
There are reasons for these differences.
Firstly, there is a minimum bread price. So, Bakeries cannot sell bread under the minimum price. Result: small bakeries can stay in business and you are probably never more than 15 minutes walk from a fresh bakery in a Dutch town.
Second: their law does not say bread should way a certain amount. It specifies a minimum dry material content in a loaf of 480 grams. Therefore, a loaf weighing about 750 grams always has 480 grams of dry ingredients. Flour is not completely dry - they do actually mean completely dry ingredients. So put a Dutch loaf in an oven until there is no water left at all and it will leave at least 480 g residue. Result: you are not buying water.
Thirdly, they make bread in the traditional way, which takes time. Even industrial bakeries, like the one where I worked, have traditional kneading machines, a first rise, a second rise and baking. They are they cooled naturally and when cool, sliced and packed (or not depending on what a client wants).
The process takes about 4.5 to 5 hours to make a loaf. They use hard wheat, not soft wheat. You really get a lovely flavour with this process - if you live there for long enough you get used to it and when I came back I was amazed at how tasteless UK bread is. And there are LOADS of different types of bread, not just "white, brown and wholemeal".
Frank Hoen
15 September 2018 at 1:27 pm
You can thank Mrs Thatcher for the removal of the minimum bread price. When she did this, the Dutch government and baking industry looked on, waiting to see what would happen.
They saw the decimation of family baking businesses and the growth of cheap, tasteless bread.
Wisely, they put people's health and the welfare of small businesses first and did not abolish their minimum bread price.
Good move in my view
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